The National Elk Refuge

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A group of migrating Bull Elk settles in for the winter at the National Elk Refuge

The setting sun brought darkness to the expansive mountain valley. A cold blast of November wind whistled through the valley as the lighted motel sign flickered “No Vacancy”. Another attempt to secure a room for the night had failed. But, finally after many attempts, a recent cancellation provided a place for a much-needed good nights rest. The night’s cold air and moisture united, as blizzard-like conditions filled the dark skies over Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

I poked my head out the opened motel room door, as the early morning sun mixed with blowing snow. Visibility was minimal, and seeing beyond the rental truck parked in front of my motel room was impossible. Finally, around mid day the storm began to subside, and the visibility began to improve. As each hour would go by, the large mountain valley in front of me would begin to reveal more of itself, and its seasonal inhabitants. The migrating herd of Elk seemed to just appear, and with each passing day, the morning sun would expose another several hundred new members to the herd. Eventually, the hundreds turned to thousands as the spectacular sight began to reach almost unbelievable proportions.

North America was obviously a very different place before the settlers arrived. Elk ranged over most of the continent, and were plentiful in the eastern states and through central and western parts of the country. They were animals that grazed the woodlands in the east, open prairies and mountain valleys in the central part of the country, and populated the foothills out west. But, as the settlers began to arrive in the east, and slowly pushed their way westward, the Elk population began to quickly change. Farms and ranches overtook the grazing grounds and crops and cattle displaced the Elk. The cattle populated the Elk’s wintering grounds, and as starving Elk began to raid farmer’s winter haystacks, they were shot by the hundreds. Towns sprang up and began to block traditional migratory routes, and conflicts began to escalate between man and Elk. The habitat encroachment had a significant impact, and by the end of the 1800s, the Elk had been displaced from ninety percent of their original range.

The area now known as Jackson Hole, Wyoming was once home to over 25,000 Elk. The early settlers began to arrive in Jackson Hole in the late 1800’s, and it wasn’t long before the pristine valley attracted settlers by the hundreds. The town of Jackson quickly developed and was unfortunately located right in the middle of one of the largest tracts of land historically used for Elk winter migration and sustenance. It didn’t take long before almost the entire herd was decimated.

Fortunately, the early 1900’s brought awareness of the Elk herd destruction to the general population, and in 1912 public interest in the survival of the Elk paved the way for the National Elk Refuge in Jackson Hole. The refuge is now comprised of nearly 25,000 acres and is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Elk spend about six months of the year in the mountains, high country, and woodlands, where the food and cover are plentiful. Migration into the valleys usually depends upon the weather. However, late October or early November usually brings enough snow in the higher elevations to trigger their traditional migration from the summer ranges in the Tetons and Yellowstone to the valley winter range in Jackson Hole. Today, the National Elk Refuge provides a winter home for about 7,500 elk. This is estimated to be well over half of the Elk population in the area.

The refuge not only protects the animals, but because such a large amount of the original wintering habitat has been developed, it also feeds them. In the most severe part of winter, the Refuge distributes large stockpiles of palletized alfalfa hay. Alfalfa provides the much-needed protein to sustain the animals through the winter as the frozen ground and crusted snow prevents them from grazing. Unfortunately, for many Elk, the harsh winter weather brings death. This has attracted many predators, and so now, the Refuge also has become the winter home and hunting ground for Eagles, Coyotes, and Mountain Lions.

Elk generally remain in the Refuge for about six months, depending on the weather. But, usually by late April or early May, they begin their trek back into the higher elevations and make their way back to the summer feeding grounds.

The Jackson Hole area is a great place to visit for photo opportunities, wildlife watching, and other outdoor activities. Located within reach of the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone National Park, numerous options for wildlife and outdoor photography exist.

For more information on the National Elk Refuge, contact the Refuge Manager at P.O. Box C, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, 83001, or call 307-733-9212.

Good shooting!

For questions or comments, P.O. Box 273 Southport, ME. 04576 or e-mail: davidmurray@gwi.net 

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