The boats came at night, hidden in
darkness. The rattle of the tide on the shingle beach muffled the luffing
of the sails, the groans of the masts and the scrape of keels against the
cobbles. With shuttered lanterns, they crept over rockweed, up beyond the
waterline, then spread through the village like sharks, and no forked tail
nailed against a fish house would keep them away. When at last three men
stood before each house, they lit great torches and threw open the cottage
doors, shouting and dragging our men and women, and children, too, until
at last all the houses down near the cove were empty and we were left standing
in the cold wind that came across the island.
We had no warning.
Although time and tide prevent us from
knowing exactly how the residents of Malaga Island were forcibly removed
from their homes one night nearly 100 years ago, their eviction is very
real and considered one of the state's darkest episodes.
Malaga
Island sparkles off the Phippsburg coast at the mouth of the New Meadows
River. Today, no buildings survive on its rocky expanse, which is mostly
covered with sumac, evergreens, and ghost traps. Lobstermen bring their
boats close to the steep, rocky shores to fish from some of the most productive
waters in Casco Bay, and gulls and osprey wheel overhead. Like most uninhabited
islands dotting the coast, there is an unearthly beauty here.
Dubbed a "maroon society" because
of the racial mix of its residents, Malaga appears to have been established
as a community in 1847, and, like many island societies, it struggled
to survive.
Allen Breed, working closely with William
David Barry of Maine Historical Society, says that all indications are
that Benjamin Darling, a slave probably from the West Indies, was brought
up here in the late eighteenth century by a Captain Darling, sailing out
of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to help establish a salt works in Phippsburg.
Breed, an Associated Press reporter based
in North Carolina, stumbled on the hate crimes on Malaga while preparing
to write a national series of features about disposed communities.
Determining exactly who Benjamin Darling
was and where he came from is difficult, Breed says, because few records
about black men were kept in the 1700s.
But there's conjecture that Darling may
have been the illegitimate son of the captain and a slave he kept near
what is now Halifax, North Carolina. Beyond this, there's an oral tradition
that Bear Island [off Phippsburg, Maine] was named after Benjamin Darling
successfully fought off a bear there. We do know from extant records that
Darling settled near the mouth of the New Meadows River, married, and
began a family that was the foundation of the Malaga community.
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"One woman attacked me at a presentation
at Bowdoin," USM anthropology professor Nathan Hamilton
says. "She believed I shouldn't be discussing the island."
Hamilton's interest in Malaga Island
is both professional and personala branch of his family tree flowered
here on Malaga several generations ago. Because of the hate crimes
and the island's unusual story, he and his associates are hoping to
have Malaga Island recognized and listed on the National Register of
Historic Places.
With the island's ethnic archaeological
sites relatively undisturbedan appealing aspect to the historic registerthe
focus now is on tracing residents after their eviction or asylum commitment
to determine their survival rate which, Hamilton stresses, provides
an important perspective on Maine culture.

Local fishermen still use the shores of Malaga Island
to store traps and gear.
"The people who lived there had
their own culture and lifestyle because the land had no value,"
says Hamilton's colleague Robert Sanford, a USM professor of
environmental science and policy. "I'm interested in what happened
when the land became valuable
This [island] was a fairly successful
if marginalized community for some time. It tells us a lot about ourselves
and how Maine developed."
The research has been coordinated
with the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, which owns Malaga and limits access
to it. "They know what we're doing," Hamilton says of his
five-year study, "and they approve of it."
Malaga is exceptional in the asylum
commitment alone. At least eight more Maine islands are associated
with generations of black families dating back centuries, including
Bailey Island, Horse Island (now Harbor Island), Bear Island, Negro
Island (now known as Curtis Island in Camden), and four more islands
in the Bar Harbor region.
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"It appears that after saving his
[father/captain's] life during a shipwreck, Benjamin Darling was given
his freedom and the money to buy nearby Horse Island, where he settled
originally," Breed says. Records corroborate this, showing Captain
Darling shipwrecked in 1773 and 1774, with Benjamin Darling purchasing
Horse Island in 1794. One of Captain Darling's wrecks was a brig loaded
with timber from Malaga, Spain.
"My theory is that the island is
actually named for that wreck and Malaga, Spain," Breed says, "rather
than for the Abenaki word for cedar."
Benjamin Darling appears to have removed
to Malaga Island in 1847, but there is no record of his ever living there.
"Back then, the only paper trail for a black man was connected to
crimes, and nothing indicates that Benjamin Darling was anything other
than a productive and law-abiding citizen. Darling's presence in the immediate
area leads me to believe that his descendants, let's call them 'Malagaites,'
were third and fourth-generation Mainers, not runaway slaves from the
South," Breed says.
In some ways, Malaga was no different
than other island communities. Seagulls seemed the true heirs to the place,
with itinerant fishermen, including Darling, storing gear in crude shacks,
their families occasionally finding a home here as well, as unchallenged
"squatters." Malaga's isolated populace had little contact with
the mainland, were not counted in the census, seldom paid taxes, and rarely
voted. Illness and even death were taken care of in the privacy of wind
and sky, as was education.
Other drifters, including Irish, Scottish,
and Portuguese adventurers, settled on Malaga, but life was never easy.
Eking out a living from exhausted topsoil and the surrounding sea was
all but impossible.
In the early 1900s, in dire straits,
Malagaites sought aid and succor from the town of Phippsburg, which had
by then become a desirable vacation destination. Even from the island's
shores, the mainland residents' parasols and conspicuous wealth were compelling.
Confronted with poverty and diversity
in their midst, the mainland residents were horrified and argued that
the island belonged instead to the town of Harpswell, to the south.
When state legislators clarified the
issue by granting Malaga to Phippsburg, the summer people were up in arms.
The state reversed its decision, effectively
leaving the Malagaites both wards of the state and in limbo. They weren't
from here and they weren't from away. Suspended thus, these were people
without a country.
The dispute dramatized the islanders'
plight, but not to the islanders' benefit. Locals called the island No
Man's Land and pushed for removal of Darling's descendants, who had become
an embarrassing "eyesore" to "respectable" members
of the mainland Phippsburg community, according to the Casco Bay Breeze.
In the August 24, 1905, edition, the
paper dubbed the island "Malaga, the Home of Southern Negro Blood
Incongruous
Scenes on a Spot of Natural Beauty in Casco Bay."
"People found it convenient that
the blacks came from the South," Breed says. "But most were
third or fourth-generation Mainers."
In 1911, Governor Fredrick Plaisted visited
Malaga and suggested burning the shacks down, drilling a well, and rebuilding
modest dwellings for the inhabitants.
But by then, public pressure had become
too great. Fifty-six Malagaites, injuriously portrayed as an incompetent,
lazy, and mentally-ill lot, were served eviction notices.
Some residents dismantled their homes
or floated them on rafts or scows to less desirable island and mainland
locations.
Specifically
and most horribly, seven members of the Marks family and an elderly woman,
Annie Parker, were sent to Pineland, then known as the Maine School for
the Feeble-Minded.
Others were simply dropped in mainland
communities, but the stigma of Malaga followed them. The new communities
refused to recognize them and denied them pauper status, barring them
from receiving any assistance.
Remaining buildings, including a once-viable
school, were destroyed by the state, and the graves of residents buried
on the island were exhumed and reinterred in unmarked graves on the grounds
of the Maine School for the Feeble-Minded.
A monument, paid for by an employee of
the school, was finally erected on the burial site by local historical
societies, but the atrocity survived in the mind of any Mainer with even
the suggestion of a conscience.
"The Malaga families lost their
own history," Breed says. There are no known Darling descendants
today [though some original island surnames persist in the surrounding
area, most notably McKinney, Griffin, and McKenzie], and, for almost a
hundred years, Malaga has been uninhabited. The island remains a popular
spot for coastal travelers and will be protected forever from development
by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust.
"It's awesome out here," a visiting kayaker says, looking across
the fennel grass to one of the island's deserted beaches, but whispers
of the state's dark deeds of the past continue to cloud Malaga's pristine
beauty.
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